Saturday, January 30, 2010

Tikal to Rio Dulce (Guatemala)







Tikal - We are spending three nights in Tikal National Park.
Day 1 - Our day started with a hard rain that luckily stopped right before our tour of the ruins began. We split into two groups – Francisco our tour guide was very good for me but a little long winded for most. He told us of the plants, the fruits, the animals, the medicinal values of many of the plants, the Mongolian birth mark linking the Mayans to Mongolians and proving the passage of man from Mongolia to North and South America, the Mayan Calendar, 2012 predictions and how NASA has visited Mayan ruins to discuss Mayan predictions for the future.
Day 2 in Tikal – The day again started with a heavy rain. Several of us had signed up for a Zip-line tour. It was a rain or shine tour so with our ponchos, hats, jackets we started out. By the time we got to the zip line station the rain had stopped. Two of the women chose to have a personal guide – he held on to them and zipped with them. Wendy after two jumps went solo; Gerry chose to zip together until the last one. It was thrilling, exhilarating. Several of our guests were in there 70s and couldn't wait to tell the grandchildren what they had done. Our next zip line will be in another week. Several are anxiously awaiting the date.
In the afternoon 7 of us went for a horseback ride in the jungle. It was a kind of one size fits all horse and saddle. One horse had a hand tied rope halter; no bit. We rode for 1 ½ hours then back to the campground for a dinner out as a group.
Rio Dulce - We are sad to leave Tikal but must continue on our journey. Today we (or most of we) had a leisurely start as the caravan did not begin departure until 7:45. I say “most of we” because Brian, the thumped, discovered a low tire on Rig 11. It was filled and off we went anticipating our visit and lunch at Finca Ixobel and let's not forget the pick up of the long anticipated bread order. We arrived suspicious of the turn, the cowpath/farm road leading us who know when as we round the corner we see a lovely spot with a circular drive and plants every where. What a beautiful spot. We were greeted by Maria, the daughter of the owners. Maria was born in Guatemala and adopted by the owners, a couple from the US. During the 60s her parents bought the farm/ranch and split their time between Minnesota and Guatemala. Maria and her parents eventually moved to Guatemala. They now run the hotel, bakery and restaurant. We had a delicious meal – hamburgers, eggplant, chicken and avocado, omelets, steak, and fried chicken. Several toured the dessert table and sampled the chocolate cake, carrot cake, strawberry/banana pie, banana cream pie and butterscotch brownies. Everything was done perfectly and professionally. Some took advantage of the WIFI while others toured the bakery and kitchen. Too soon we were off to Rio Dulce.
In the past we parked in a horse field at a hotel in Rio Dulce. This year we parked in the second boat storage area before the hotel. What a surprise!! They built a new reception area, new restaurant, new showers/bathrooms and added on to the pool. The facilities are absolutely gorgeous. The guests took advantage of the pool and bar. What a welcome sight. By far this is the best parking lot we have ever stayed in.
The next day we took a boat ride to Livingston which is on the sea. It was spectacular. We went by beautiful homes, simple hut type screened in porches with very nice sailboats, simple homes on the river with women washing clothing in the river and some bathing. Many wooden canoes with children selling shells, carvings, turtles and turtle shells. Birds, lily pads, fish. We visited the hot springs that feed into the river and enjoyed some home made coconut rolls. Just like mom's with a hint of coconut. We also stopped at a Mayan school where in addition to the normal classes they teach customs and crafts for their people. Several bought banana leave bowls, blouses, bags made of banana leaf paper. Finally to Livingston where we had a local meal. Livingston is a small town but very important little port city. Many nationalities visit and decide to stay on. Our visit was a short one and then back to Rio Dulce. We had a wonderful meal in the open air restaurant overlooking the river and those beautiful sailboats. Off to Honduras tomorrow.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Chicanna, MX to San Ignacio, Belize

Chicanna, MX to San Ignacio, Belize (Jan 22 - 25)
We had a lovely but bumpy ride to Chicanna. This is another Mayan Ruins and tonight we stayed packed like sardines in the parking lot. Our grade school Spanish continues to amaze us. We were able to ask for taxis in Villahermosa, tours and parking at Chicanna. Several people went for a walk around the ruins the of course we had a social and snacks. The temperature was most likely 95-100 in the rigs so several were forced to run their generators just to cool it off enough to go in. By bedtime it was comfortable enough to sleep.
The Belize border was the smoothest we have ever had. Our guide Henri had done a superb job. Our insurance was done and ready to sign (two years ago we sat for two hours while they typed). The Agricultural inspection was not. We paid them a “fee” of $10 US per rig; they did a cursory inspection of two or three rigs. Time: 2 ½ hours. A record.
We arrived in Corozal to electric (although a little erratic), water and sewers. We still can't run air conditioners without generators but our perception of the necessities is changing. Several walked to town for groceries, liquor, beer and some for dinner. There is a large population of Asians here so many of the restaurants and markets are Chinese. These was from the number of Chinese slaves brought to Belize over the years. We left Spanish and entered an English speaking country that actually speaks English, Spanish, Creole and some Island languages thrown in. We had dinner at Tony's and it was great. Grilled grouper – picante, garlic and ginger. And one fajita. Food was very good and the local beer, Bellikin, seems to be a hit with all.
The next day we took a boat ride to the Lamanai Mayan Ruins. This settlement existed for 3000 years. The name means Submerged Crocodile. The boat ride yielded many bird sitings and one croco-gator (can't remember which it was so now they are all the same). Every ruin is different and special. In addition to the ruins the howler monkeys love to put on a display. LuAnn was able to visit with the village mid-wife who was also a specialist in herbs. She was amazing; had learned about medicinal herbs from her three grandmothers. She is now passing the language on to her children. She was also knowledgeable in the properties of minerals and stones. The local women have set up a co-op to raise money, pass on the knowledge of the ancestors. The shops there have stone-work, metal work, needlework, basketry, and more. Yes , LuAnn bought a pendant with a jaguar on it from the co-op.
The drive to San Ignancio was uneventful but interesting. Belize is such a mixture. Sometimes it looks like Jamaica with small colorful wooden houses, then Bermuda with the colorful stucco bungalows with neat yards, then it becomes a mixture of markets and stuff. The majority of us stopped at the Belize Zoo – the world's best small zoo. Every animal here is rescued, born there or confiscated from locals who are domesticating against Belize laws. A few brave souls took a tubing trip complete with miner's hats and lights on a river cave. They said it was spectacular. We plan to add this to the trip itinerary next year. And we personally plan to come back to Belize for our own tour.
We arrived at the pivotal point in our drive and found the bridge we were supposed to cross was closed and we had to drive downtown and cross the very small single lane bridge. A man stopped us by flashing his lights. He was from Knoxville, TN and knew we would need help getting through town. The owner of the campground met us at the roundabout in town to provide direction. The Knoxville friend led us to the campground. We then found we had bushings missing from the rear axle. Bob with the help of a local mechanic took the “thing” apart and then the campground owner and Bob drove three towns away to find parts. It was a little scary for awhile since the next day we were scheduled to eratacross into Guatemala. We briefed Chris and Brian on the possibilities. (1) We stay behind and get the rig fixed and they take the caravan on to a border they have never been to before. OR delay by a day and shift the entire caravan by one day. Luckily the owner and Bob found the part and the mechanic (he had been in Guatemala drinking beer because it is cheaper there) AND they fixed it in the dark.
We are off to the border tomorrow. n

Friday, January 22, 2010

Pharr, TX to Palenque, MX

Sorry it has been so long since I have updated any of you. We left a very cold Pharr, TX on January 13. It had been freezing or below for two nights and was rainy for several days we were there. Entering Mexico was uneventful. No breakdowns or banditos (I know you were all worried about that).. Once again we have been blessed with a wonderful group of travelers. About half are from Canada and half from the US. We are currently in Palenque getting ready to leave for Chicanna, MX. We have toured two Mayan ruins, one Olmec museum and eaten some wonderful meals. I have a new recipe for Chicken Pipian (Chicken with a green sauce of cilantro, pumpkin seeds and sunflower seeds).
Our first incident was Poza Rica. Rig 7 got their 32-34 foot motorhome stuck in the campground. The hotel had a campground put in for the Rver's but didn't realize it should be severely packed down before using. We spent the next three hours finding parking spots at the hotel during an event for all but the very small rigs. The hotel is in a beautiful location unfortunately it is at the top of a very large hill. So for those of you worrying about LuAnn not be able to exercise – don't she's getting her walking in. Our first breakdown occurred in Veracruz after some very difficult roads. Rig 6 had four broken shocks and some bad springs. The Tailgunner stayed behind with them to find a welder. The rest of the group headed on down the road. We arrived at a beautiful hotel with swimming pool, restaurant and natural swimming lagoon where we parked for the night. No hookups but who cared AVC rented a room for guests to shower and the atmosphere was great. Palenque was inspirational as it was before. It is one of the largest Mayan ruins. Scientists have discovered inner walls, tomb of the Red Queen (very unusual to have a woman in a position of significance). On to Cascada Agua Azul (Blue Water Cascades) where we swam in the beautiful river with cascades and little pools. The color is unbelievable. For those of you with clay pit swimming experience the color is similar. Last for the day was Misol Ha Falls. Reminded me of Fall Creek Falls in Tennessee except visitors can walk behind the falls. Tomorrow Chicanna then Belize on Saturday. Will keep you updated as internet becomes available. Miss you all but love this traveling. I will get some pictures up at the next update.