Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Chicanna, MX to San Ignacio, Belize

Chicanna, MX to San Ignacio, Belize (Jan 22 - 25)
We had a lovely but bumpy ride to Chicanna. This is another Mayan Ruins and tonight we stayed packed like sardines in the parking lot. Our grade school Spanish continues to amaze us. We were able to ask for taxis in Villahermosa, tours and parking at Chicanna. Several people went for a walk around the ruins the of course we had a social and snacks. The temperature was most likely 95-100 in the rigs so several were forced to run their generators just to cool it off enough to go in. By bedtime it was comfortable enough to sleep.
The Belize border was the smoothest we have ever had. Our guide Henri had done a superb job. Our insurance was done and ready to sign (two years ago we sat for two hours while they typed). The Agricultural inspection was not. We paid them a “fee” of $10 US per rig; they did a cursory inspection of two or three rigs. Time: 2 ½ hours. A record.
We arrived in Corozal to electric (although a little erratic), water and sewers. We still can't run air conditioners without generators but our perception of the necessities is changing. Several walked to town for groceries, liquor, beer and some for dinner. There is a large population of Asians here so many of the restaurants and markets are Chinese. These was from the number of Chinese slaves brought to Belize over the years. We left Spanish and entered an English speaking country that actually speaks English, Spanish, Creole and some Island languages thrown in. We had dinner at Tony's and it was great. Grilled grouper – picante, garlic and ginger. And one fajita. Food was very good and the local beer, Bellikin, seems to be a hit with all.
The next day we took a boat ride to the Lamanai Mayan Ruins. This settlement existed for 3000 years. The name means Submerged Crocodile. The boat ride yielded many bird sitings and one croco-gator (can't remember which it was so now they are all the same). Every ruin is different and special. In addition to the ruins the howler monkeys love to put on a display. LuAnn was able to visit with the village mid-wife who was also a specialist in herbs. She was amazing; had learned about medicinal herbs from her three grandmothers. She is now passing the language on to her children. She was also knowledgeable in the properties of minerals and stones. The local women have set up a co-op to raise money, pass on the knowledge of the ancestors. The shops there have stone-work, metal work, needlework, basketry, and more. Yes , LuAnn bought a pendant with a jaguar on it from the co-op.
The drive to San Ignancio was uneventful but interesting. Belize is such a mixture. Sometimes it looks like Jamaica with small colorful wooden houses, then Bermuda with the colorful stucco bungalows with neat yards, then it becomes a mixture of markets and stuff. The majority of us stopped at the Belize Zoo – the world's best small zoo. Every animal here is rescued, born there or confiscated from locals who are domesticating against Belize laws. A few brave souls took a tubing trip complete with miner's hats and lights on a river cave. They said it was spectacular. We plan to add this to the trip itinerary next year. And we personally plan to come back to Belize for our own tour.
We arrived at the pivotal point in our drive and found the bridge we were supposed to cross was closed and we had to drive downtown and cross the very small single lane bridge. A man stopped us by flashing his lights. He was from Knoxville, TN and knew we would need help getting through town. The owner of the campground met us at the roundabout in town to provide direction. The Knoxville friend led us to the campground. We then found we had bushings missing from the rear axle. Bob with the help of a local mechanic took the “thing” apart and then the campground owner and Bob drove three towns away to find parts. It was a little scary for awhile since the next day we were scheduled to eratacross into Guatemala. We briefed Chris and Brian on the possibilities. (1) We stay behind and get the rig fixed and they take the caravan on to a border they have never been to before. OR delay by a day and shift the entire caravan by one day. Luckily the owner and Bob found the part and the mechanic (he had been in Guatemala drinking beer because it is cheaper there) AND they fixed it in the dark.
We are off to the border tomorrow. n

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