Crossing into Honduras, first stop Copan Ruins then San Pedro Sula 5 February 2010
This border was a first for us since we have usually gone to Esquipulas then Honduras. As this was a tourist border (no trucks) we were told it was easier. Smooth sailing. Our guide met us at the border and had the paperwork done except for checking and stamping the passports. It was obvious that he did not get to use his English very often as it took an hour before he had the “look of Honduran confidence” to leave. This is actually a very blank stare with one's head tilted slightly to the side. We made it through the border in record time – 2 ½ hours (last year it was 5 ½ hours). We create these enormous spreadsheets that contain all kinds of vehicle information. Having these done and emailed to the tour guide cut the time in half.
Our trip log (the mile by mile guidance) was terribly off for some reason. We lucked out because we had very smart guests. One guest stayed at a critical turn to direct everyone. After the border instead of several miles to a horse field it was only one or two miles. Again we were lucky as the tour guide led us to the field. The Wagonmaster (Bob) and Tailgunner (Brian) worked together to get everyone off the road and parked as quickly as possible.
COPAN
Our problem began that evening – the refrigerator wasn't cooling. Brian and Bob checked wires, banged on the side to get rid of air bubbles, cleaned the flue but nothing. By the next day LuAnn tossed out all dairy products and later in the day any cheese and chicken. Then vegetables. By the second morning, Bob decided to clean the thermo-coupler. This did the trick and the refrigerator is back in operation. Now we just needed a grocery store to replenish our supplies.
Day 1 we took some open air trucks to the Copan Ruins. Great tour as always. We had an incredibly cool day so the ruins were even better than they have been in the past. As we all needed limperas (Honduran dollars) we took the open air trucks to town. Town is charming. Many shops, restaurants surrounding a square. Internet cafes on every street. We found a great little restaurant to have a local delight called anafre (Honduran nachos). They are served in a clay bowl sitting on top of a wood fire. That was actually Brian's meal but he shared. We then took a tuk-tuk back to the field. A tuk-tuk is a three wheeled motorcycle with a cab placed over it. Three people can ride comfortably and the cost was 50 cents to 1.00 per person. That evening the staff prepared margaritas and Honduran Hot Dogs for the guests. Honduran Hot Dogs are served with salsa in a tortilla.
Day 2 started with Fran and LuAnn heading to town for a traditional Mayan sauna then massage. We stripped down to our bloomers as the woman asked, wrapped ourselves in a towel, left our glasses, jewelry and sandolas in the changing room and headed to the sauna. We found ourselves walking through the backyard with some visibility into the neighbors yard. I say some since neither of us could see without our glasses; it was like playing peek-a-boo as a child and thinking that if your eyes are closed they can't see you. Well our eyes were just as good as closed. Oh and I forgot to tell you that we needed those sandolas because the path through the backyard was filled with sharp little rocks. We steamed for 15 minutes throwing herb soaked water on the coals then we would take a cold shower. Then 15 more minutes steaming. We did this routine for 45 minutes then headed to the massage table. The sauna and massage was operated by a Chorti (sp?) Mayan woman. It was wonderful. We felt completely free and loose. Fran and LuAnn headed off for a bank to change money, lunch, an internet and a little shopping. We then took a tuk-tuk back to the field. All and all we had a great day. The evening was topped off with a typical Honduran meal of grilled garlic chicken with chismole (fresh salsa), cheese, sour cream and thick corn tortillas. The appetizers were anafre, tamale of the Jaquar and dessert of espresso, cappuccino, cafe late, coffee or cafemoka.
SAN PEDRO SULA
We park at a very nice hotel in a city that seems more like Miami, FL, than Honduras. The hotel has a hair salon, two restaurants, pool, sauna, fitness center, WIFI, two nice malls within walking distance, etc. Quite a nice change from the field of yesterday.
The first day we took a tour of a banana plantation run by Dole. Hard to believe with that much hands on labor that bananas cost so little. The most amazing thing to me was that the bananas are shipped green and stay green until they are hit with gas and the temperature allowed to rise above 55 degrees. They ripen in 24 hours. We were told that those bananas are grainier than one that is allowed to ripen in two weeks.
The mahogany factory was a little disappointing as there were only a few workers. They were interesting but since tourism is down so are their hours. We were delighted with a beautiful buffet lunch at a hotel downtown followed by a short tour of the local city market. Several bought anafre pots for souvenirs and as gifts. Last stop of the day was the grocery store. Our first real grocery store in about 10 days. They had fresh vegetables, meat, coffee and liquor. The grocery stores up until this point were 20x20 stores with minimal items. LuAnn bought some fruit that sounds like rabotin – a raspberry fruit with hairy, spiny things on it. The fruit inside was white kind of like a grape. We were told to split the outside and pop the grape like thing in our mouths and suck the fruit off. It tasted pretty good but was weird. Most people on the trip tried some. LuAnn also bought some zapote fruit. It is about the size of a sweet potato. The inside was the texture of avocado but tasted like a sweet potato with sugar on it. Kind of an acquired taste but pretty good.
The third day was a free day. Bob and LuAnn stayed around the camping area. Several people went to the beach (a 3 hour round trip). Bob, LuAnn, Chris and Brian checked out the two malls, did some work and had a nice day of nothing. Tomorrow we head to Lago de Yajoa for a waterfall tour, zip line and dinner of local fish.
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